"The fact that big-shouldered, bling-festooned dressing is now being shamelessly enjoyed by Christophe Decarnin at Balmain (and his many fans) doesn't make Macdonald an imitator—he was already there ten or so years ago."- Style.com
We've seen so much of the Balmain shoulder on the runways this season its already starting to feel like old hat- but that hasn't stopped yet another British talent, Julien Macdonald, from working it quite nicely into a collection that is finally his own.
Among the other current trends oozing from his Fall 2009 Collection, which showed at London Fashion Week this Tuesday past, there was an overwhelming sense that Macdonald had finally come into own. After a rocky period spent with Givenchy, which ended in 2004, he struck out on his own for awhile occupying himself with sundry projects- among them a redesign of the British Airways cabin crew uniform and a mass-produced (HA- there it is again!) line for British department store Debenhams.
"I thought I would grow to love it...I didn't. What Givenchy needs is time. It took Galliano six years to make Dior work. I just wasn't prepared to stay. In the end, I told LVMH, 'I'm miserable and I'm going home.' I don't find a black dress with three holes exciting. I don't find the black cashmere pencil-skirt suit fun. But I kept quiet and did my job."- Julien Macdonald, The Independent UK
His experience at Givenchy no longer a restriction on his career, Tuesday's showing was really a demonstration of muscle-flexing on the part of the designer. The whole package- Balmain shoulders, cutouts, Hi-Res opulence and shine, and sheer paneling on sleeves and bodices- was present, along with a refreshing shift away from the deep violet shades we saw in New York and a move towards greens and blues.
Photos from Style.com
Congratulations, Julien. It's good to have you back.
That final dress is exquisite.
ReplyDelete