Tuesday, February 17, 2009

MANual Drive: New Trends in Menswear

As temperatures drop, Fall/Winter silhouettes for menswear tend to fatten as heavy knits and overcoats get thrown into the fray. This year is no exception; however, as many tighten their belts to weather the tide of recession chic (yes, I'm just as tired of hearing that as you are- bear with me here) us males will be loosening other things to compensate. Oversize is the new skinny- silhouettes are beefier and satisfyingly full, in some cases even plain gluttonous. Pants are bunchier and more gathered around the ankle (or in some cases crotches have been dropped and side seams brought out for a baggier, more fluid look), sweaters are slubbier and looser, and accessories especially have been transmogrified and exaggerated -look for luxuriant scarves that are practically sweaters unto themselves.

[caption id="attachment_141" align="alignnone" width="320" caption="Duckie Brown"]Duckie Brown[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_142" align="alignnone" width="320" caption="Y-3"]Y-3[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_146" align="alignnone" width="361" caption="Yigal Azrouel"]Yigal Azrouel[/caption]

Duckie Brown perhaps had the most fun with men's outerwear and accessories- his collection had a polar-apocalypse meets urban functionality vibe that manifested itself in the over-the-mouth mock necks, hazard orange accents, and use of sateen, leather, and wax-treated fabrics. Utilitarian with an irreverent edge. Y3 as well played with the male silhouette, in particular it seemed with the pant- while some in particular channeled a sort of ski-pant bagginess, the deliberate execution was instantly appealing. Yigal Azrouel took a more literal approach, going for a more classic selection of men's fall and winter garb with slubby sweaters, gathered ankles, and the occasional satisfyingly chunky scarf.

-Post by Nicolas Seraleyva

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